To sum it all up.

We have been home now for a month and what a busy month it has been, we had 2 weeks in Auckland seeing friends and family and then we moved to Hamilton where I started my new job on moving day. Mr Logistics (Mike) organised the move, unpacked the boxes and organised our new and temporary home. We finally have wifi – as opposed to 1GB on our phone so now it’s blogging time!

 

2015 was quite a year and here is a summary.

  • 50 weeks
  • 34 flights
  • 20 countries
  • 13 languages
  • 7 workaways
  • 3 experiences of volunteering in SE Asia
  • 6,000 ish photos
  • numerous bus trips, boat trips and a few train trips
  • 6 different underground systems
  • 7 different sim cards and anyone’s free wifi that we could find.
  • We swam in the Andaman Sea, the South China Sea, the Atlantic (well paddle) the Mediterranean Sea, Miller Lake (Ontario), Crystal Lake (Michigan) and more pools than we can count.

Here’s a few things we learnt

  • You don’t need a big backpack, everywhere we went was suitable for a suitcase, so 3 months into our trip we swapped backpacks for 4 wheel cases. SUCH A GOOD IDEA, after all we are 53 and 55 not 23 and 25. From here on in we used 4 cases, 2 large and 2 cabin size, they had 4 wheels each, TSA locks and were hard cases. Our brand was Wimbledon, they didn’t cost a fortune but weren’t dirt cheap. Thanks KL for such good shopping. These cases made it home and while they have knocks and scratches we are proud of they still have plenty of life left in them.
  • Katmandu packing cells are brilliant. When you are in and out of a suitcase for a year these were a great idea for being organised.
  • Sat Nav is a tool but not the only tool, ours is a Garmen and was really useful but you still need to double check on a paper map or on your phone. However, don’t rely on your phone as you may find yourself without internet. Our satnav was capable of taking us up some interestingly narrow and windy roads that may be shorter in theory but are definitely longer in reality. Check on a map first.
  • I bought a good quality pashmina in KL and it turned out to be one of the best things I bought all year. If you can buy one, spend as much money as you can afford. They cover you up when needed eg temples, they cover you up when you are cold eg as a scarf or shawl, they double as a blanket on a plane and they can dress up a very basic outfit when needed. Mine is 90% pashmina (wool from the neck of a goat, it is finer than cashmere) and 10% silk. A good quality one feels very soft, can fold up very small and its creases will drop out when hung. Remember if the price seems to good to be true it probably is. Buy one from a reputable dealer and bargin.
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The mighty pashmina used as a scarf in Ireland
  • Buy shoes that work for you. You will most likely spend hours on your feet and well fitting shoes make such a difference.
  • We booked almost all our flights through google flights, listen to local advice and be prepared to spend a lot of time organising flights. If you are travelling on a budget this is the price you pay. Remember not all airlines are on google flights so sometimes you need to look elsewhere.
  • Most of our accommodation was sourced using booking.com We quickly got to ‘genius level’ which gave us great discounts and booking.com has accommodation at all levels in all countries. Remember that things vary from country to country, luxury accommodation in Asia is cheaper than basic accommodation in London or Paris. Just because it says B and B doesn’t mean you will get breakfast. Some of our best accommodation was in smaller hotels and in the ‘old city’.  Free breakfast is great, you fill up and don’t need to eat for hours (good for the budget).
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Our gorgeous hotel in KL Ramada Plaza
  • On the subject of free breakfasts. This is a touchy topic and you often have to regard this as a fuel stop not a gourmet experience. We have had breakfasts that vary greatly in quality, rubbery eggs, cold meats and cheese, curried chicken, fried noodles, rice porridge, fluffy white overly sweet bread, reconstituted milk, cardboard like waffles, the list goes on. I truly feel sorry for the hotels who are trying to produce breakfasts that suit all tastes. No one wins really, just regard it as a fuel stop and fill up. Save the real food experiences for later in the day.
  • Instead of going to the well known places seek out the similar but less known eg we have been to Stonehenge before and this time we went to the Avebury Stone Circle in Wiltshire. Truly amazing, in a small village and not a lot of tourists. Don’t queue for the Louvre and stand in a crowd to see the Mona Lisa, see other equally impressive museums or art galleries at a fraction of the price or better still free eg Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (Barcelona)  which is huge and your ticket lasts 2 days or try the smaller Kelvin Grove Art Gallery and Museum in Glasgow or the V & A in London.
  • workaway experiences made a great year even more memorable. Workaway gives you the opportunity to live like a local. Workaway experiences vary and even the not so good ones give you the opportunity to learn something about a place and its people. We would highly recommend this as a way to travel. We met some truly interesting and generous people we hope to see again one day.  We got to work on a Scottish estate, pick blackberries in the Slieve Bloom mountains (Ireland) eat pizza in a piazza in Mantova (Italy) make glass and perfect our nail gun skills in Devon and try a slice of life in Malaga (Spain).
  • If possible don’t over plan your trip. Allowing for a bit of freedom means you can say yes when a golden opportunity presents its self. This is how we got to volunteer in a school in the Cameron Highlands, or go to Malta

So our overall impressions? This was a great idea, it wasn’t all easy, it wasn’t cheap but we discovered things about ourselves and each other we didn’t know eg I’m not that good on a motor scooter and Mike can mend a dislocated thumb, what Mike and I have is something special, we  survived with very few disagreements and our marriage is stronger than ever.  We discovered that there are some very, very good people out there making a difference; read more here, here and here .

In New Zealand we actively encourage our young people to take off and see the world but I would recommend you do it again in your 50’s. You see it with older eyes and with experienced minds. We have a different perspective on many things now and the adventures have not come to an end. Consequently we have taken off to a job in a new city, we are meeting new people and finding new places to visit. Most of the time we stayed between one and three weeks in a place and it is now week 3 in Hamilton and I wonder if we should be packing our bags and moving on……mmm not just yet!

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This is my photo of the year, taken in Puy l’Eveque, France at about 9pm after a meal at a local galette cafe. Happy memories

The blog will continue, I am going to share food and recipes that I have gathered as we have travelled. I hope you will continue this journey with us!

 

Ireland:

We are coming to the end of our time in Ireland and we don’t feel ready to leave. We have LOVED this place. From the moment we arrived we have encountered friendly warm people who really go out of their way to help.

It’s been a month since I wrote and I have taken nearly 500 photos so bear with me, I have tried to squeeze 4 weeks of fun and adventure into something you want to read and see and not get bored with.

We had a week between arriving and starting our next workaway so we hired a car and drove around the coast going south out of Dublin towards Wicklow National Park. If you have been following our blog you may remember me waxing lyrical about springtime in England well now it is autumn in Ireland and it is so beautiful. Wicklow National Park was an array of golds and reds. We first visited Glendalough and the ‘Monastic City’ the site of a 6th century monastic settlement. Quite amazing.

We then drove towards Cork and went to the small town of Cobh (pronounced Cove), even though the weather had turned rather grey and cold it was a colourful sight and well worth a visit.

We had a plan to drive part of the Wild Atlantic Way  and enjoy the wild west coast. It turned out to be a very good idea. Over the next few days we drove the Ring of Kerry starting in Kenmare, then the Dingle Peninsula, we keep thinking we had hit the best bit and it couldn’t get better but each new day bought more spectacular sights!

The Cliffs of Moher get a lot of attention and are well worth the visit but this coastline has so much to offer.

We got as far as Clifden and would really have liked to do more but it was time to return our rental car.

Some of the best bits of our travels are the people we meet and we had the opportunity to stay with a wonderful family who, at very short notice, offered us a bed for two nights. Nancy is the childhood friend of our Italian sister-in-law Petra and she and her Irish husband, Kevin, live in Ennis with their two gorgeous boys, Luca and Marco. The boys tried to tell us about Hurling, a sport they love but sadly we left non the wiser except to think it was a mix of hockey, lacross, a few other sports and requires a helmet. Their warm hospitality and friendly welcome will not be forgotten in a hurry!

Oh and did I mention how easy it is to travel here? The lack of traffic is great, and then there’s the great food and yes even surf beaches (plural) where people are still enjoying the water despite it being November!

After returning our rental car to Dublin we caught a bus to the centre of Ireland and started our next workaway. We have been working with Chris who is the owner of Ardmore Country House in Kinnitty in County Offally.

Kinnitty is at the base of the Slieve Bloom Mountains which are well known for their great walking trails. Chris’s house is a Victorian townhouse that she has restored over a number of years and furnished with some wonderful antiques. During our time with her we have helped with some of the day to day B and B tasks, bedmaking, toilet scrubbing, vacuuming, laundry and ironing etc and we have completed some creative tasks, built an IKEA wardrobe, varnished floors, made curtains, put new silicon into showers and more.

Probably the most satisfying task for us all was recovering ten dining chairs. It seemed like such a straight-forward task but it wasn’t. The chair bases were hardwood so it took a lot of effort to undo the old covers and replace the webbing and add new covers. All three of us were involved in this task and even Renie the Canadian visitor staying in Chris’ cottage joined in. Alone this would have been a tedious task but as a group we had lots of fun!

We have loved this workaway, Chris is such good fun, she has really made us welcome and helped us be a part of this community. Chris has taken us to a number of musical events in a variety of pubs and at Kinnitty Castle, we have walked in the local area and visited some of the local villages. We even watched the quarter, semi finals and finals of the Rugby World Cup in the local pub.

We also enjoyed the company of Renie, who is from Edmonton in Canada. We joined her for a weekend in Sligo where we attended bits of a music festival and also visited sites associated with W B Yeats. A wonderful weekend. Renie is a lot of fun and I suspect we may see each other again one day.

Autumn has been pretty spectacular here and we have grabbed every opportunity to get out and see it. Chris also enjoys photography so we were often found out with all our cameras, well two cameras and my phone!

We are now going back to Scotland to our friends and workaway hosts at Monzie Estate near Crieff.  While we are sad to leave Ireland I am certain we will return and we look forward to seeing Chris in New Zealand when she visits in 2016.

A slice of life in Devon.

After leaving Canada we flew back to England via Charles de Gaulle in Paris. This would have to be the most unfriendly, chaotic airport we have been through this year and this was flight number 21 so we have been in quite a few airports. The difficulties came because we had a connecting flight and had to change terminals. Finally we landed in Birmingham Airport, a destination I had been quite rude about and I am happy to have been proved wrong. The people were super friendly, the systems speedy and efficient. Of course there is a huge size difference between the two airports but……

So off we went to Teleford and a few days with my Aunt Kim. Such a warm welcome and a very pleasant time catching up. Then it was off to Devon to the little village of Plymtree for a one week workaway. Plymtree is a small village not far out of Exeter, it is very picturesque and friendly. We were working with a well known glass maker called Siddy Langely. You find out more about her work at http://www.siddy.com  she is incredibly talented and her work is beautiful. Siddy has sold her Devon longhouse and is in the process of building a new house and glass studio. For a week we worked alongside another couple who are there on a long stay, we (actually mainly Mike) helped with getting the exterior ready for cladding.

One of the brillant things about workaway ( http://www.workaway.info ) is that you get to experience things you wouldn’t as a tourist. While in Plymtree we went to a concert in the village hall, we went to the village pub and wondered around the roads which in some cases were so narrow we thought they were driveways!

The other amazing opportunity we had was to make some glass coasters with Siddy. You can see this process in the pictures below. It involved using broken glass and putting it into a mould which is then placed in a kiln where the glass melts and then is cooled very slowly. We are REALLY pleased with the result and now have a permanent memory of our time in Devon.

After a week it was time to collect another rental car and drive north towards Scotland. The drive gave us the opportunity to visit a few places we had on our to do list. The first being Sampford Courtenay, a beautiful village in west Devon on the slopes of Dartmoor. We have a friend who is named after this village, his great grandfather left here to come to New Zealand.

From here we headed north and encountered something we have read about and heard but not seen. A traffic jam on the M5. What should have taken 4 hours took over 6 hours, there was a horrific accident that brought traffic to a complete stop for a while and after that it was slow until we were a long way north. The fact that it was the first Saturday in August also meant that every man and his caravan was out. Oh and did I mention the rain?

We got as far as Morecambe and spent the night there. The next day we were up bright and early and off  north going via the Lake District. Even in the rain this is spectacularly beautiful. This was followed by the scenic route to Edinburgh and now we are at our next workaway on the first farm in the Scottish Highlands. I will tell you more about that next time!

O la la, Paris! Superlatives abound!

We arrived back in France courtesy off a bus from Victoria Bus Station. At GBP25 this was not to be sneezed at. The bus journey was good, the experience of getting the bus onto a train to take you through the Chunnel was a new one. The minute we were back in France we were smiling, such happy memories from our time in Touzac. Be prepared, superlatives will abound in this blog! Without any hassle at all we arrived in Paris and were soon at our hotel. Such a lovely room and so central. We dropped our bags off and went out for dinner, we found an absolutely gorgeous little cafe and had a delicious meal accompanied by a really nice un-oaked chardonnay. MUCH nicer than an oaked chardonnay. The next day we were up and at it, well at least as far as a small boulongerie to have coffee and a baguette. Yes, we ate well in Paris! Reminds me of Rome and Touzac!

While in Paris we walked everywhere doing at least 12-15kms each day, no wonder my sandals are wearing out! First to the Louvre. SO BEAUTIFUL, SO GRAND, and surprise, surprise, such a long queue to get in. We had already decided that we weren’t going in so this was not a biggy. Want to know why? We have already visited some incredible art spaces, many for free, most with no queues. We spent ages just turning and looking at these beautiful buildings, built on such a grand scale. It really does take your breathe away.

Moving on we went to the park that leads off from the Louvre towards the Champs-Élysées. More beauty, more grandness, more smiling, more hawkers selling trinkets and hats.

After reaching the Place de la Concorde we turned towards the Siene and headed for the Eiffel Tower. It was a long walk, quite a few kms but so many stops were required to look at things along the way. If you read my blog about our time in KL you may remember the advice we were given about the Petronas Towers, ‘the best view is from outside’. The same applies with the Eiffel Tower, again horrendous queues but we were very happy to look at this magnificent structure from a distance, from each side, from underneath. Incredible.

The Siene of course requires some attention so we went on a river cruise, a good rest for the feet but also a great way to see this grand old lady of a city. The 70 minutes on the boat went by very quickly, I would recommend this trip. Now all we had to do was walk back to our hotel!

The next day was Sunday and we decided to walk up to Montmartre and go to mass at Basilique du Sacre Couer. A really lovely experience, this a great way to see a church in action as well a time for us to stop and give thanks. The singing is led by the Bendictine sisters who live at Sacre Coeur and it was just beautiful to hear them and to join in with the singing. After mass we wondered around Montmartre looking at the art markets, admiring the buildings and eating lunch before wandering back down to our hotel mid-afternoon.

Our friends Fran and Gary Elliot arrived early evening and with much excitment we greeted each other and then it was off to (you guessed it) dinner. So much talking followed it took ages to finish dinner.

Notre Dame was the goal for the next day, another long leisurely stroll via the Louvre to see this landmark, and there were the queues. Honestly, all these tourists! We of course are travellers not tourists. So we walked around the outside, admired this beautiful building and then it was lane walking. This has turned out to be one of our favourite things to do in a city, just wander the streets and the lanes, look at the houses, the shops, seeing where and how people live in some of these old cities.  All this walking makes one tired so a stop in the park and a beer with lunch followed by a long conversation was just what we needed. Refreshed we walked the Champs-Élysées to towards the Arc de Triomphe.

This was our last day in Paris but the beginning of Fran and Gary’s stay so we traded yet more stories over dinner and wine, then it was time for us to pack our bags and get ready to fly to North America. Paris was magic, it is an experience for all the sense, writing about it evokes both memories and a very happy feeling. I do hope we return one day!

Rome, a culinary adventure

We are now six months into our trip, it has  been an amazing experience  and we are so glad we made this decision. So far homesickness has not reared its head, probably in part because we keep meeting up with friends and family. Rome was no different. We have a gorgeous Italian sister-in-law, Petra who is from Rome. Petra’s mother June now lives in NZ but she is currently visiting Rome so off we went to see where they come from and to meet family.

What we encountered has made our stop in Rome one of the best things we have done so far. We encoutered friendly, warm and generous people who made our stay so worthwhile. This began with a family friend who organised our accommodation near the Colosseum and taxis to and from the airport. Right next to our accommodation was an amazing deli and just up from that was a shoe and bag store so I wondered if we needed to go anywhere else but plans had been made!

We spent our first day with June and Petra’s brother Sacha going to visit Trastevere and other places that were a part of their Roman upbringing. First stop was Santa Maria, the church where the funeral of June’s husband and Sacha and Petra’s father, Sergio snr, was held. It was also where Pete and Petra’s children (Savannah and Sergio) were baptised.

We had lunch in a cafe that the Lanzavecchia family have frequented for 50 years and it is still run by the same family!  Simple, rustic and incredible delicious food. This meal started a conversation that lasted until we left. Sacha is a chef, I love to cook, June loves to cook, Mike loves to eat. It was a match made in heaven. We also visited other places from their time living in Rome. The evening meal was at another family restaurant and involved yet more yummy food and conversation.

Day 2 was spent around a swimming pool with extended family, such a relaxing day. Mike was a hit with the younger ones as he played almost non-stop in the pool with them. I had some amazing conversations with June’s niece, Antinea who also loves to cook. (Picking up a theme yet?) She speaks very little English and I speak very little Italian, Sacha was part of this conversation but it was amazing how much Antinea and I understood each other. Food is such a universal language and people who are passionate about it find a way to share. That day ended with Sacha and I cooking risotto and lots of wine being drunk.

The next day we did the tourist thing. We decided to start at the Vatican and work our way back to the Colosseum. It turned into an interesting day. The queues to enter St Peter’s Basilica went all the way around the  square’s outside columns. Why is it called a square when it is more of a key hole shape? There was a wait of over 2 hours to get in! The Vatican Museum was worse and while you could join a slighly shorter queue if you joined a tour this required us paying between EUR40-50 each. So we made the decision to enjoy the outside and then go else where. We strolled the streets and worked our way to Via del Corso, a lovely long stretch of road with lots to see on the side roads. Sadly the Trevi Fountain is being repaired so nothing to see there but else where it there was lots to see. By 3pm we were foot sore and weary so after negotiating a good deal we climbed on one of the many  hop on hop off buses and stayed on for about 90 minutes alighting at the Colosseum. Now that is one magnificent structure. Dinner that night was in a local pizzeria with a bottle of Chianti. Delicious on both counts.

Our last full day (sad face) involved a trip to the south of Rome to visit the small town of Castel Gondolfo where we had a long lunch by Lake Albano. In this town is the summer residence and vacation retreat of the pope. Apparently this lovely little lake side town is packed with tourists during summer weekends but as we visited on a Monday it was gloriously quiet and peaceful. Also much cooler than Rome itself. You will be surprised to hear that once again we spent a considerable amount of time talking about and enjoying food. Before we knew it it was time to return to Rome and say our good byes. We will see June again when we return home and we look forward to returning Sacha’s generous hospitality when he visits his now extended family in New Zealand. We will always remember these remarkable people, Antinea and her 3 gorgeous children, June and Sacha and their warm welcome. Johnny and his mother Linda for being so kind to friends of their friends! This and the amazing food experiences made Rome a winner!

Barcelona, Spain

We loved Barcelona, it has a vibrancy that is mixed with a chilled out holiday feel. Very few suits seemed to be worn here! Barcelona has art, architecture, food, sunshine, space, greenery, a beach, good transport: what’s not to love? We arrived on the evening of my birthday and meet with our Wanaka friends, Caroline and Susie in our airbnb accomodation. It was lovely to be with them as we were feeling sad about leaving France and hoped that this was going to be good. It started well with tapas, paella and sangria. Three Spain wishes ticked off in one go!

The next day we hit the ground running, we started at La Rambla, a pedestrian walkway regarded as an essential Barcelona experience. Off from this is the Marcat de la Boqueria. At first sight it was  all crowds and my intial reaction was ‘no thanks, I am all marketed out’ but the others all wanted to go in. WOW, this was amazing, food stalls galore, places to eat, to buy, so glad we went straight after breakfast or this could have got expensive. This market was so good we went to it twice.

From here we wound our way through narrow streets to end up at La Catedral. A beautiful Cathedral that was still and quiet inside. Markets, musicians and people milling on the outside, peace, cooler temps and history inside. This all went well together. By now it was lunch time and we were into round two of the tapas adventures in a cool little cafe in a side street that gave us delicious food. Down to the water front we went and there was the beach. So different from NZ, umbrellas and chairs for hire but not many people use them. The main goal here seemed to be getting a tan, in fact we saw people putting on oil as opposed to sunblock that we use.

As part of the ‘how many sites can we visit in one day?’ campaign we were now off to Montjuic to see the views from the hills and to visit Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. We got here via the metro, funicular and a cable car. The view from up by the castle was expansive and breathtaking. This was not a quick stop as there was SO MUCH to see.  After a pleasant walk down through the gardens with a necessary stop for a cold beer we landed up at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. The outside is almost as spectacular as the inside. But the day was running out so we concentrated on the outside, inside would wait until tomorrow. From here it was home with very sore feet and a very tired mind, to say nothing of all the images on the camera.

Day 2 was taken at a slightly slower pace, the morning was spent at another church, Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar, then a long wander through the old town. After lunch it was back for the art! As with any large art gallery you can’t see everything and so we concentrated on the medieval/gothic art. I was blown away, never have I seen so much medieval work in one place. As you would expect it was all religious based and my RE teacher mind went into overdrive, the colours, the texture, the stories.

That night we meet with some other kiwis and had the best tapas yet! We were loving Barcelona!

Our last day was dedicated to visiting La Sagrada Familia, (The Holy Family),  the yet to be completed Cathedral by Antoni Gaudi. Construction started in 1882 and it is expected to be completed in 2026, the 100th anniversary of Guadi’s death. This is an amazing building inside and out and it is easy to spend hours here. It is has been consecrated but it is not yet used as a place for mass but there is a crypt where mass is said. I found this place to be moving and very relevant, the use of colour inside is wonderful. The gothic influences are easy to see, eg gothic architecture is about height and light, I had a sore neck from looking up! Guadi was appointed the Architect Director in 1884 and the current Executive Architect and Researcher is a New Zelander, Mark Burry. Barcelona is certainly a city I would be happy to revisit!