Andalucia, the highs and the lows

We had such a good time in Barcelona in June that we decided a return visit to Spain was needed, so we organised a workaway in the Malaga region of Andalucia and decided to use this as a base for further adventures.

We have spent two weeks working with a family in Benalmadena helping them with their English. Benalmadena is an arabic name meaning ‘son of the mines’, however there is little mining done here now. Apart from the local Spanish people it is largely populated by the British, many on holiday and quite a large number who now live here. Huge numbers of these Brits are retired so Mike and I were feeling quite young! The only sirens you hear are ambulances going to the local hospital. The seafront at Benalamadena is very commercial and full of multi-story accommodation and eateries along the seafront. Not our kind of place but pleasant enough for a walk and a wander.

We also found the local homes interesting but were somewhat disconcerted by the very high walls surrounding homes and the multiple locks required to enter them.

Andalucia is a very mixed area, cities, small villages, rugged mountains, long flat plains, miles of olive trees and miles of citrus trees. Parts are very run down and in other places it seems quite afluent.

During our first weekend we went to Mijas, a small village in the hills full of white houses and small lanes. Lots of tourists but still very worthwhile  to visit; spectacular views to the coast, lovely houses, flamenco dancers and little eateries, what’s not to enjoy?

We also visited an old church in the town and a church in a rock called Chapel of Virgen de la Pena, in both churches Mary is VERY dressed up, to us it was more like a barbie doll or an angel for the top of your Christmas tree than the woman of Nazareth in the Bible. Try as we might we couldn’t find out why she was so dressed up. Local custom was the most common answer.

The old town of Malaga, like many old towns we have visited, was charming, again the small lanes, old churches but Malaga has a Picasso Museum and sunshine and warm weather.

We visited Seville for a day and saw the Alcazar which is magnificent. The strong moorish infulence mixed with a Christian flavour has resulted in the most magnificent building and gardens. It would be so easy to spend a whole day in this attraction. We had also planned to visit Granada, specifically to see Alhambra but tickets were sold out until October 22nd. You could go on a guided tour but those tickets were out of our price range, you could also just turn up and try for cancelled tickets, our friends Kathy and Roland did that mid-week and were successful but we were going on a weekend and it is too far to go and to not be able to get tickets. What interested us is that when we put up photos of Alcazar on Facebook some people saw them and thought we had been to Alhambra so maybe they are so similar it is ok that we didn’t go.

The highlight would have to be the weekend we spent in Ronda. Some of the best scenery we have seen anywhere. The views literally take your breath away. It is hard to photograph but we have tried! The most popular tourist attraction here is the Puente Nueve (new bridge) built in 1793. Quite a feat!  It was very easy to while away a weekend here as it seemed that every corner we took resulted in something else to see, lovely piazzas, old, old churches and of course that view.

On the Saturday we walked the town and on Sunday morning we became adventurous and walked down  into the gully. Much of the pathways are narrow and steep, in places it was extremely narrow – 70mm according to me, 70 cm according to Mike. Even though it challenged my ‘height issues’ it was really worthwhile, of course all that walking down meant we had to walk back up.

Ronda was busy with tourists and it is October so it must be heaving in July/August. Some people ‘do’ Ronda with speed, we were having a leisurely lunch on the Sunday when we saw a tour group move down the road towards the bridge where they obviously looked at the view, took the required photos, walked back up to their bus and left. All this done in less time than we took to eat lunch!

As always we are glad we came but we are now looking forward to swapping the dry land filled with olive trees for the green land of Ireland.

Barcelona, Spain

We loved Barcelona, it has a vibrancy that is mixed with a chilled out holiday feel. Very few suits seemed to be worn here! Barcelona has art, architecture, food, sunshine, space, greenery, a beach, good transport: what’s not to love? We arrived on the evening of my birthday and meet with our Wanaka friends, Caroline and Susie in our airbnb accomodation. It was lovely to be with them as we were feeling sad about leaving France and hoped that this was going to be good. It started well with tapas, paella and sangria. Three Spain wishes ticked off in one go!

The next day we hit the ground running, we started at La Rambla, a pedestrian walkway regarded as an essential Barcelona experience. Off from this is the Marcat de la Boqueria. At first sight it was  all crowds and my intial reaction was ‘no thanks, I am all marketed out’ but the others all wanted to go in. WOW, this was amazing, food stalls galore, places to eat, to buy, so glad we went straight after breakfast or this could have got expensive. This market was so good we went to it twice.

From here we wound our way through narrow streets to end up at La Catedral. A beautiful Cathedral that was still and quiet inside. Markets, musicians and people milling on the outside, peace, cooler temps and history inside. This all went well together. By now it was lunch time and we were into round two of the tapas adventures in a cool little cafe in a side street that gave us delicious food. Down to the water front we went and there was the beach. So different from NZ, umbrellas and chairs for hire but not many people use them. The main goal here seemed to be getting a tan, in fact we saw people putting on oil as opposed to sunblock that we use.

As part of the ‘how many sites can we visit in one day?’ campaign we were now off to Montjuic to see the views from the hills and to visit Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. We got here via the metro, funicular and a cable car. The view from up by the castle was expansive and breathtaking. This was not a quick stop as there was SO MUCH to see.  After a pleasant walk down through the gardens with a necessary stop for a cold beer we landed up at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. The outside is almost as spectacular as the inside. But the day was running out so we concentrated on the outside, inside would wait until tomorrow. From here it was home with very sore feet and a very tired mind, to say nothing of all the images on the camera.

Day 2 was taken at a slightly slower pace, the morning was spent at another church, Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar, then a long wander through the old town. After lunch it was back for the art! As with any large art gallery you can’t see everything and so we concentrated on the medieval/gothic art. I was blown away, never have I seen so much medieval work in one place. As you would expect it was all religious based and my RE teacher mind went into overdrive, the colours, the texture, the stories.

That night we meet with some other kiwis and had the best tapas yet! We were loving Barcelona!

Our last day was dedicated to visiting La Sagrada Familia, (The Holy Family),  the yet to be completed Cathedral by Antoni Gaudi. Construction started in 1882 and it is expected to be completed in 2026, the 100th anniversary of Guadi’s death. This is an amazing building inside and out and it is easy to spend hours here. It is has been consecrated but it is not yet used as a place for mass but there is a crypt where mass is said. I found this place to be moving and very relevant, the use of colour inside is wonderful. The gothic influences are easy to see, eg gothic architecture is about height and light, I had a sore neck from looking up! Guadi was appointed the Architect Director in 1884 and the current Executive Architect and Researcher is a New Zelander, Mark Burry. Barcelona is certainly a city I would be happy to revisit!